Using the JR 9303 and the Futaba 611 Gyro
Most of this applies to the 401 and 601 gyro
Personally, I leave the gyro in AVCS mode (heading hold) all the time with
a gain of 35%. This has been a very good, very simple way to do it on all
models, any size, from beginner to expert. Higher gain settings usually
result in failures of the tail drive system and excess current draw and
don't add to the ability of the gyro to hold the tail.
We must allow
you to put the gyro in Normal (rate) mode so you can adjust the length of
the tail rotor control rod and make small changes in the gain settings if
Since we are
not going to be changing the gain or mode automatically when we go into
stunt mode, there is no need to use the Auto Mode. We want to simply flip
a switch in order to toggle between AVCS and Normal mode and have the
ability to change the gain from the transmitter. If at some time in the
future you want to use the Auto feature, feel free. This information
should help you understand the workings of your radio and the gyro.
Pay special attention to
steps 6 and 18 . Step 6 is the one that trips most people up.
the transmitter and press LIST.
Go to TRVL
ADJ. and set RUDD to 100% on both sides. Now set AUX2 to +100% on the left
side and -100% on the right side.
Go to REV
SW. and make sure the AUX2 is NORM not REV. (Now the channels we are
concerned with are in the default settings.)
Go to GYRO SENS. If it doesn't say RUDD D/R, press
the jog wheel and change it until it does.
Set Pos. 0 to 0%. Set Pos. 1 to
MONITOR. Observe AUX2 while you toggle the RUDD.D/R switch on the top
right of your transmitter. The mark should go from one side to the other.
If it does, continue to the next step. If it doesn't, turn off the
transmitter. While holding the enter button down, turn on the transmitter.
- Go to DeviceSEL. Scroll to AUX2 and press the wheel. It should present a
list of options. Select AUX2 SW and press the wheel. Now check using the
MONITOR screen again. If it still doesn't work, I would suggest a data
reset on the model and start over.
- Power off
the transmitter and receiver if it is on.
the rudder servo with the blue connector is plugged into the SX port on
the gyro controller..
the gyro sensor is plugged into the GYRO port on gyro controller.
the RX 1-4 wire with the black connector is plugged into the RUDDER
channel on the receiver.
the RX.AUX wire with the red connector is plugged into the AUX2 channel on
the transmitter, then the receiver. Be careful not to disturb the sensor
until the "Hello" message on the gyro is replaced with the status message.
Press the FUNC on the gyro controller until you see MODE. Make sure it is
in CMT mode. Press the FUNC + four more times to return to the gain/mode
screen...or just turn off the receiver and then on again.
LIST on the transmitter
GYRO SENS. Observe the display on the gyro controller. With the RUDD D/R
switch in the down or forward position, adjust POS. 0 until the gyro
controller reads G36N4.8v where G= gain, 36=gain value, N=Normal mode and
4.8v= voltage to the receiver. At this point, the Pos. 0 value on the
transmitter should be about 30%. Now flip the RUDD D/R switch and adjust
Pos. 1 until the gyro reads G36A4.8V where A=Heading Hold mode (AVCS).
see a black dot instead of the A or N, it simply means the servo/rudder
channel is off center either because you're moving the rudder stick or you
have bumped the rudder trim. Make sure the rudder trim is centered or flip
the RUDD D/R switch quickly three times. You should not have to mess with
Put the gyro in Normal mode using the RUDD D/R
switch. At this point, the servo is in neutral position. The servo arm
should be exactly square to the control rod. If it is not, change it until
it is. drill a new hole if you have to.
the length of the control rod so that you think it will hover without
rudder input. This is usually a point where, it the tail blades, when
folded in the same direction, have about a 1 inch gap between the ends.
make sure that when you move the rudder stick to the right, the control
rod moves forward. This is always true on models that have the main blades
turning clockwise when observed from above.
when you move the nose of the model to the left, the control rod moves
forward. If not, you need to reverse the direction of the gyro. Refer to
preliminary end point adjustment as described on page 20 of the 611 gyro
all off, fuel it up.
up, set it on a smooth surface and step back a safe distance.
Get it light on the skids.
If it looks like it's not going to spin around, go ahead and lift it into
a hover in normal mode. If you have to hold right rudder to keep it from
turning, set it down and shorten the t/r control rod. If you have to hold
left, lengthen the rod. Do this until the model does not yaw when you
switch from heading hold to normal mode.
the final end point adjustment on the t/r as described on page 20 of the
611 manual. Be sure to do this step after adjusting the control rod to the
fail safe settings to hold all channels except throttle, which should go
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