Here's the deal on Hirobo stuff. It's all made in Japan, where quality is always the best it can be. They mould the plastic and machine the aluminum in their own plant. They have their own ideas about what a helicopter should be...and they have some good ideas. Sometimes their style is a little funky, but they're learning. Hirobo helicopters and pilots have won the World Championship many times. Their models aren't usually cheap, but when you open the box, you can be sure that every part is in the box and every part is high quality.
The Turbulence D3 is Hirobo's latest model. It is clearly their most capable 3D model. It is expensive at around $1600, but the quality is very good. Everything fits exactly the way it's suppose to. It's a very impressive model.
The newThe new SDX 50 is in stock. It's available in 120 degree CCPM. This is a very sharp looking model and is getting rave reviews.
Recently, I updated my Freya 90 with a 2.4 receiver. It had been some time since I flew it. I normally fly 50s when I get a chance to fly because of fuel costs and I like how easy it is to start a 50. But, I decided to fly it Sunday to test the 5S lipo pack on my Dynatron starter. I guess I forgot how nice it was because I didn't want to quit flying. Even with winds gusting to 40mph, this machine handles really well. I know there are hotter machines out there and it's probably like comparing a worn out Raptor 50 to a brand new T-rex 600, but I have to say...I really enjoy flying this model !!
The XRB SR continues to be a good seller. It's the only machine we carry that I will recommend for indoor flying. The foam blades make this a safe machine around children.
We've got the Lepton with and without motor and speed controller.
Freya Evo 90 kits are in stock and we have the replacement parts on the wall. What a machine! You can't beat it for the money. I put some notes here as I built mine.
The new Xspec includes the Evo 90 head parts and is still only $850!
Guys often ask me what my favorite machine is. That's always a tough question, but the old, trusty, plastic Freya is always in the top three. I'm still flying my original Freya. I have a very tired OS70 in it now. The bearings are rattling around in the engine so bad that it's a little embarrassing. The engine is the first OS70 that came into our shop. It's sort of like my Suburban; I'm going to run it until it quits. Update... The sub outlasted the original 70. I have a new 70 in it now...and I'm carrying it around in the old sub.
Sceadu EVOs are here. SCEADU50403930 is the part number for the Evo 50.
Jeff Galford worked out an easy way to spread and support the Freya canopy at the rear. Here's part
A few days ago when I placed an order, one of the things we talked about was adding 2 standoffs on the Freya to support / expand the rear of the Freya’s Canopy. Well my friend this works PERFECT, and you should try it, only takes about 5 minutes to install. Parts needed for the mod:
Part #Quantity Description JRP970097 229mm Body Standoffs M3 X 12 SHCS 2 12mm socket head cap screws M3WL 2M3 Large Washer Loctite
Cut 2 pieces of Blue Aerotrend Medium to 13mm in length I installed the body standoffs in the 1st hole aft of the aft elevator arm to the swash plate. Run the M3 SHCS from the inside of the frames outboard, install the fender washer, loctite, and screw on the
Just use 414123-FREYA CABIN CROSS MEMBER 3 X 33.5 (1 pr.) , 404547-SX CABIN DAMPER BUSHING SET (4) , two (2) 3x12MM SHCS and two (2) 3x8MM SHCS w/washers and the rear of the canopy will be held in place just as nicely as the front.
Freya Update Newsletter.pdf Building and setup tips for the Freya. (Somewhat out of date)
I've been putting a lot of time on my Freya and I can honestly say it's one of a handful that I can go out and have a ton of pure fun with.
Easy to build, reliable, flys great and cheap to fix. What more could a guy ask for.