If you choose the YS engine for your Millennium, it is a very good idea to elongate the engine mount holes in the lower rear frames by about 1mm. This is sometimes needed to get the necessary vertical play. If you don't do this, and experience interference problems, this is probably the first place you should check. The engine should be fixed so there's about 1mm of up and down play.
It might be a good idea to put some Clear Silicone RTV or thick clear packing tape on the frames before putting the tank in.
I use two Hatori CNC muffler clamps to secure the muffler (SB9 II). This is
very rigid. Notice the exhaust diverter has been trimmed to minimize vibration.
The standoffs are mounted to the carbon fan shroud bracket and to the lower frames. There are two thin washers under the standoff at the frame. When mounting an Hatori muffler, it is very important that you maintain alignment of the muffler and the stub header. Do not mount the standoffs to the landing gear bracket. It will crack and it's expensive.
Here are a couple shots of my servo layout on the Milli (left) and the SE
(right). Note the Miniature Aircraft #596 aileron arms on the cyclic servos.This
gets the rods and arms almost perpendicular. For a perfect setup use the
tool to drill holes exactly perpendicular to the rods as on the SE.
Sorry for all the dirt, been autoing in the grass :-)
Change your start system to Milli II
To do this you need the following:
2. Torque Tube
4. Servo Tray
Any other changes are cosmetic.