Millennium tips

If you choose the YS engine for your Millennium, it is a very good idea to elongate the engine mount holes in the lower rear frames by about 1mm. This is sometimes needed to get the necessary vertical play. If you don't do this, and experience interference problems, this is probably the first place you should check. The engine should be fixed so there's about 1mm of up and down play. 


It might be a good idea to put some Clear Silicone RTV or thick clear packing tape on the frames before putting the tank in.

As you can see from the picture, unless you do something, the tank rubs the frames and makes a huge mess. 

Also put a couple washers between the boom support ends and the frames. This will move them out and away from the tank. If not, they rub on the tank and make a mess.


I use two Hatori CNC muffler clamps to secure the muffler (SB9 II). This is very rigid. Notice the exhaust diverter has been trimmed to minimize vibration.

The standoffs are mounted to the carbon fan shroud bracket and to the lower frames. There are two thin washers under the standoff at the frame. When mounting an Hatori muffler, it is very important that you maintain alignment of the muffler and the stub header. Do not mount the standoffs to the landing gear bracket. It will crack and it's expensive.

Protect any wiring that goes through the holes in the frames. The edges are very sharp.
Set the initial mesh of the tail drive gear as tight as you can get it. Grease the crown gear and after about 4 tanks, clean the gear with alcohol.
Don't tighten the bolts that hold the vertical fin on too tight. Even with the aluminum spacer in the gearbox, it creates drag in the tail drive system and reduces the smoothness of the system.
Reinforce the canopy at the mounting holes with fiberglass cloth and CA or epoxy. Also put strips of glass around the rear edges of the canopy. Otherwise it will crack within a few flights..

Here are a couple shots of my servo layout on the Milli (left) and the SE (right). Note the Miniature Aircraft #596 aileron arms on the cyclic servos.This gets the rods and arms almost perpendicular. For a perfect setup use the GW-2 tool to drill holes exactly perpendicular to the rods as on the SE.
Sorry for all the dirt, been autoing in the grass :-)

Change your start system to Milli II

To do this you need the following:

  1. Start System

    2.  Torque Tube

    3. Head

    4. Servo Tray

Any other changes are cosmetic.