Raptor 30/50

The Raptor 50 Titan continues to be a great machine for beginners and experts alike. The Trex 600 Nitro is giving it a run for it's money.

After a few gallons, does your Raptor wear away the bottom of the guide pulleys that are in the frames? My Raptors were consistently doing that. I found out that my tail boom was drooping. It was straight, but over time and probably because of the thousands of autos that I do, it was lower in the rear than it should be, which knocks the belt out of alignment and wears the bottom of pulleys. The stock horizontal fin mount just doesn't hold it in position very well. I put a Quick UK horizontal fin mount on it, which should solve the problem. If it still moves, I'll fasten the boom into the boom mount with a short screw.

Rodger Hangartner suggests  using a main shaft collar on both sides of the upper main shaft bearing. In the event of a Jesus bolt failure, the head won't pull up and you can auto normally. Great idea Rodger!

We now have a good metal swashplate and a metal head for the 30. Check out the 30/50 upgrade section under Raptor.

Shims to eliminate vertical play in your main gear ... 5 / $3.00 available in .2mm and .3mm

Raptor V1 Crash kits $
Includes over $100 dollars worth of parts!
Click Here to see the contents

Model Sport 550s ...
Carbon fins, we have them...
Mr. Carbon  t/r pushrod and rear servo mount ...
White powder coated tail booms ...$

Visit the Raptor Upgrade section in the online store for many more 


Always glue your blade roots on. The manual gives you the option. Don't fly the blades without gluing the roots on....it's dangerous!!!! ... wood blades only.

Use a 3mm hardened Jesus bolt, especially on the 60s. I'll give a specific size soon. These have been know to break and when that happens, you learn why they're called what they are. This is the bolt that goes through the center hub and main shaft at the upper end of the main shaft. Order MA0097 (22mm)

If the engine starts acting up, try changing your clunk line. The stock line doesn't last long, especially if you use 30% nitro. We recommend Aerotrend small blue. Once you do this, it's best to go ahead and fit an auxiliary fuel tank such as the KSJ or T&T. When it's new, the Aerotrend line is just a little too stiff to stay in the fuel all the time. With the aux tank, you'll be able to run your main tank down to the last drop.

Run the low needle as rich as you can. It should want to die on the first start. Kind of a pain, but that's where it needs to be for a good hover / full throttle mixture. OS50s are a little different. They seem to run better when set to a normal idle setting.

If you plan to fly 3D, you can use a pitch gauge to set the pitch initially, but then go to the field and make the final adjustments by doing climb outs both right side up and inverted. The machine should be adjusted to climb the same both ways. This is assuming you have everything maxed out mechanically and are comfortable flying upside down. Do a ground check first to make sure you have full throttle at low stick in idle up and that the engine can handle the pitch. I would recommend getting someone to help if you aren't comfortable autoing from an inverted position. The first time you do this, do it high and have the nose going into the wind when you go upside down.