I wrote the paragraph below this quite a while back and not much has changed. Horizon is concentrating on the Eflite stuff and if it wasn't for that, they probably wouldn't be interested at all in helicopters.
JR helicopters, like some other lines, is suffering from trexosis maximosis. The parts prices are killing them. It's too bad, because JR makes some of the highest quality models in the market. They've always flown great.
The Vibe 90SG turned out to be a bomb. Way too expensive to buy and crazy expensive to fix. But they do fly very smooth. I think this machine is more suited for Japanese fliers and sponsored JR Team pilots.
We've sold several Vibe 50s. I got to fly one and it's very impressive. Very agile. This might be the quickest model I've ever flown. It rivals some of the flybarless setups in quickness. The big complaint is how expensive they are to fix when you crash. I've seen several crazy cheap deals from people looking to sell their Vibe 50s, so that might be a way a guy could afford one.
My old Vigor CS page. It's still here.
We've got some time on our Venture. It's stupid stable in it's "out of the box" configuration.
Nathan looks back to see what's going on while it's hovering inverted 6 inches off the ground. No tricks here. This is a real photo.
Here's a review of the model by Jeff Ashe. Jeff has been flying helicopters for about 15 years and knows his stuff. Click here to see the review.
We try to keep a full line of JR parts, including Ergo 30/46/60, Vigor Belt drive and Vigor CS parts. We even have some Quattro gasser parts!
I started flying the Ergo in 1995. Nathan and I both fly the Vigor CS, mine with a YS80 and Nathan's with an OS 91. We meet with Team JR pilots at just about every funfly we attend. We learn a lot from them.
Does your Ergo keep breaking the clutch bolts? Just file the bottom of the holes on the fan hub so the clutch can sit squarely on the hub. Problem fixed.
Have you had any trouble with your Ergo's seesaw bearings coming loose or not being smooth? Clean the holes with acetone. Put a little GREEN Loctite on the end of the bolt. Tighten it down. Put a straight allen driver in the bolt head and tap it with a hammer. Tighten it again. Now it should be smooth and it won't back out.
Have you had a flybar break? Read the whole story...there's more. I think Dave Storey came up with this fix in order to get more flybar travel. Turns out that it also fixes the problem with flybars breaking...most of the time, but not completely. Look at what stops the flybar from pivoting more in the center hub. Cut it away however you can. Mine was done on the bench at a funfly by Scott Cathey. He used an Xacto knife with a #11 blade! He just cut the aluminum away until the flybar came to within an inch of the canopy. Be sure to remove material from both sides, top and bottom equally. You might be surprised how easily the knife cuts the aluminum. Just don't get in a hurry. I like the knife method because you don't get grinding dust spread out all over the head.
It turns out that Dave is still breaking flybars. The next thing is to try a longer flybar...around 480mm. The mod mentioned above might not have eliminated Dave's problems, but it definitely cut the frequency down.
Once you have the flybar moving more, you'll notice one of the links hit on the yoke at the bolt hole. The bolt head is surrounded by plastic at this point. Cut a little of the plastic away at the point of contact.